The 1970 Annapurna Southwest Face Expedition - Nepal
This iconic British expedition took place in the spring of 1970. Dougal Haston and Don Whillans made the first ever summit of the South Face --- considered by many as the hardest climb in the Himalayas with the highest number percentage of casualties. The leader was Chris Bonington.
I was the logistics officer, base camp manager and in charge of communications.
Expedition poster
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The 12,000 foot south face from base camp. Route is up the arete on the left (to 26,545 feet)
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Over 700 porters were used. This is the second party near Gundrung, west of Pokhara
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Snow from an avalanche severely impeded porters getting to base camp (note footware!)
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Base camp at 14,000 feet. The icefall is at top of picture leading to camp 1
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Myself and my Gurkha radio operator carrying to camp 2 with Macharpuchare in background
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Myself with climbers Martin Boysen and Nick Estcourt just below camp 2
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A treacherous stretch of crevaces just below camp 2
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A large wind blown snow cornice with camp 3 nestled below
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Leaving camp 4 on fixed ropes
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The so-called terrible traverse above camp 4
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One slip would not be good here with several thousand feet drop to glacier below
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Where ice was too steep and slippery holes were bored through to the other side
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Ian Clough carrying a load below camp 5. Ian was killed on the descent
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The high altitude snowfield. Can you see the three climbers?
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Mick Burke on the Rock Band (at about 25,000 feet)
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Moving up the rock band (about the equivalent of climbing the north wall of the Eiger at nearly twice the altitude).
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Don Whillans near the top. Only Don would smoke a cigarette here!
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Don Whillans photographed by Dougal Haston on the summit
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